It is about time that we threw our two cents into the pool (more like sea) of advice about the legendary Venice Bacaro (bar). However, we fully anticipate that you will find your own favorites as well and we welcome any new discoveries.
Our cozy and modern apartment, San Trovaso , is the perfect getaway for two while cunningly being situated above two of the best bacari in Venice. And without any of the noise!
Even during the most fleeting of visits, you will find yourself frequenting one more than the others. It may be because of the vicinity to your house, or more likely because of a particularly well-mixed spritz or charming barman. Whatever the reason, this is the way Venetian friendships start.
A bit about the Bacaro tradition
Bacari in Venice work so well because they are perfectly adapted to the ‘walking city’ nature of the people. Many are open from the crack of dawn to support the local fishermen and last the aperitivo hour. The aperitivo (cocktail) time runs loosely from 17.00-19.00 (5pm – 7pm) but this changes between summer and winter. There is a rhythm to the city, the Bacari are the bells that allow you to tell the time of day simply by looking at them.
Other cities might prize themselves on having hipster areas, business bars and late night back alleys. In those other Italian locations, it may be seen as a status symbol to “be seen” at such a bar while proudly sipping away at your € 18 cocktail. In Venice, on the other hand, the cocktail hour spritz prices are roughly € 5.00. This removes the pressure of a heavy price tag in a fancy bar, as it simply not the Venetian way.
Spritz (order of sweetness):
Aperol, Campari, Cynar, Select
Again, this comes down to personal choice but it is worth trying them all to be sure.
Brief history of Cicchetti and Ombra:
The Venice Bacaro is a bar in which you find, in particular, cicchetti , which are like Venetian tapas. There is an old tradition in Venice called cicchetti and the shadow , literally translated as a little bite and the shade . The most traditional cicchetti are simple and can still be found in almost every bar; half an egg with anchovy or Baccala (creamed salted cod) or Sarde in Saor. They are meant to be a small taster to keep you happy until dinner, and to enhance the enjoyment of your drink. However, naturally there is also far more on offer nowadays. Schiavi and Vino Vero are two of the Bacari that are particularly well known for the creative cicchetti.
As for the ‘Ombra’, there are two stories as to how it earned this intriguing name, each as likely as the other. The first tale is that the name originated from Gondoliers who would snatch a glass of wine in the shade away from the glare of the sun on the water. The second tale says the original wine sellers would set up their tables in San Marco square, and therefore had to follow the shadow cast by the bell tower in order to keep the wine cool.
Below, we share with you some of our favorite cicchetti and wine bars in Venice that should not be missed on your next trip!
Cannaregio
Al Timon (Fondamenta Ormesini nr 2754)
Paradise Lost (Fondamenta della Misericordi nr 2540)
The Cellar (Strada Nuova – San Felice 3689)
Ca D’Oro (also called La Vedova, Calle del Pistor 3912)
The Bottega ai Promessi Sposi (Calle dell’Oca 4367)
Real Wine (Fondamenta della Misericordia, 2497)
Vecia Carbonera Winery (Campo Della Maddalena, 2329)
San Polo
Osteria al Bancogiro (Campo San Giacometto 122)
Osteria al Pesador (Campo San Giacometto 125/126)
Cantina Do Spade (San Polo, 859)
Do Mori Winery (Sestiere San Polo, 429)
Dorsoduro
Cellar of wines already Schiavi (also called Al Bottegon, Fondamenta Nani, 992,)
Cellar of wines already Schiavi (also called Al Bottegon, Fondamenta Nani, 992,)
Alla Bifora (Campo Santa Margherita, 2930)
Castle
Osteria Al Portego (Calle della Malvasia, Castello San Lio 6014)
Aciughetta (Campo San Filippo and Giacomo 4357)
Bacaro Risorto (Campo San Provolo 4700)
Saint Mark
I Rusteghi (Campiello del Tentor. San Marco 5513)
Trattoria da Fiore (Calle De Le Botteghe 3461)
Osteria Enoteca Al Volto (Calle Cavalli (Campo San Luca 4081)
Bacarando (Calle dell’Orso, 5495)
L’Avena (Piazza San Marco, 133/134)
Holy Cross
Bacareto da Lele (Campo dei Tolentini 183)
Osteria di Filo (Santacroce 1539)
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